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The earliest diamonds were found in India in 4th
century BC, although the youngest of these depos-
its were formed 900 million years ago. A majority
of these early stones were transported along the
network of trade routes that connected India
and China, commonly known as the Silk
Road. At the time of their discovery, dia-
monds were valued because of their strength
and brilliance, and for their ability to refract
light and engrave metal. Diamonds were worn as
adornments, used as cutting tools, served as a talis-
man to ward off evil, and were believed to provide protec-
tion in battle. In the Dark Ages, diamonds were also used
as a medical aid and were thought to cure illness and heal
wounds when ingested.
Until the 18th century, India was thought to be the only
source of diamonds. When the Indian diamond mines
were depleted, the quest for alternate sources began.
Although a small deposit was found in Brazil in 1725, the
supply was not enough to meet world demands.
Diamond Engagement Ring History
The use of rings as a symbol of commit-
ment dates back to ancient history,
specifically to the betrothal (truth)
rings of the Romans. These early
rings, often formed from twisted
copper or braided hair, were
worn on the third finger of the left
hand. The placement of the ring
was significant, as Romans be-
lieved that a vein in the third finger
(vena amorous) ran directly to the heart.
For
Romans, betrothal rings were given as a sign of affection
or friendship, and did not always represent the rite of mar-
riage.
The history of the engagement ring began in 1215, when
Pope Innocent III, one of the most powerful popes of
the Middle Ages, declared a waiting period between a
betrothal and the marriage ceremony. The rings were
used to signify the couple’s commitment in the interim. It
was around this same time that rings were introduced as
a major component of the wedding ceremony, and it was
mandated by the Roman government that all marriage
ceremonies be held in a church. In addition to serving as
symbols of an intention to marry, these early rings also
represented social rank; only the elite were
permitted to wear ornate rings or rings
with jewels.
The first recorded presentation of a
diamond engagement ring was in 1477,
when Archduke Maximilian of Austria
proposed marriage to Mary of Burgundy.
Although engagement rings were common at this
time, diamonds were a rarity and were reserved for
royalty and the upper elite class.
A Modern-Day Resurgence
In 1947, DeBeers commissioned the services of leading
advertising agency N.W. Ayer, and the slogan “A dia-
mond is forever” was coined. The premise of this large-
scale marketing campaign was the suggestion that
diamonds should be the only choice for engage-
ment rings. The DeBeers advertising campaign
was wildly successful, and was a contributing
factor to today’s widespread
embracing of the tradition of
diamond engagement rings.
In today’s fine jewelry
market, more than 78%
of engagement rings sold
contain diamonds.
With the surge in popularity of
the precious stone, many companies
and organizations began campaigns to
educate jewelers and consumers about what to
look for when selecting a diamond. As jewelers ex-
perimented with ways to enhance the diamond’s visual
appeal and presentation, new cutting techniques were
adopted to help increase the stone’s brilliance. Over
time, several prominent shapes emerged as the most
popular varieties, including round, oval, marquise,
square (princess), and rectangular (emerald).
Today, the world’s diamond deposits are slowly be-
coming depleted. Less than 20% of the diamonds
mined are of gem quality; less than 2% are considered
“investment diamonds.” 75-80% of mined diamonds
are used for industrial applications, such as grinding,
sawing, and drilling. Typically, more than 250 tons of
ore must be mined in order to produce a one-carat,
gem-quality stone.
Diamond History